Communalism

Food Habits and the Politics of Division

Fish is very crucial to Bengali culture and that the broad umbrella of Hindu religion has many tendencies where non-vegetarian food is part of the ritual.

Food Habits and the Politics of Division

A fish vendor selling fish at a market in Behala, Kolkata (Representative image; courtesy: X/@orangewayfarer)

In current times, when we are witness to many mechanisms of political propaganda affecting social thinking, food habits are also one of the components of divisive political tendencies. It is in the air that Muslims are more violent in their tendencies as they consume non-vegetarian food. The angle of the Holy Cow and beef eating is also introduced, and we witnessed the phenomenon of lynching being introduced in India, in which primarily Muslims and also Dalits are the major victims. The segregation of people in housing societies based on food habits is also prevalent, as housing societies check food habits before permitting the sale of flats. This was highlighted in a more complex way recently in West Bengal. It also showed with what speed and limitations the advice of preventing non-vegetarian food near the Puja pandals should be given. Also, a section of society has been propagating that the sale of non-vegetarian food be banned during the Jain festival of Paryushan.

The advice of Dhirendra Krishna Shastri (Parchiwale Baba, whom Prime Minister Modi calls his younger brother) on this regard had mixed reactions. Currently, West Bengal is celebrating its biggest festival, Durga Puja. Recently, the BJP came to power in West Bengal. Already, the rise of the BJP’s political assertion in WB has been accompanied by the promotion of Lord Ram. For the BJP and its followers, promoting festivals around Lord Ram is on the rise. This is a move that had yielded rich electoral dividends for it in North India, affecting the electoral scenario in India as a whole.

As the BJP government settled in WB, the time for the Durga Puja came. And the party in power invited Shastri of Bageshwar Dham. He had come for Hanuman Katha in Howrah’s Liluah. He advised the people to keep non-vegetarian food away from Durga idols during the Puja. A similar advice was already proffered by the RSS affiliate VHP. This, in a way, triggered a storm among Bengali Hindus, including those calling themselves “Hindu nationalists”. There were statements and protests from prominent Bengalis that Shastri should not teach them how to celebrate Durga Puja and what to eat and what not to eat.

The reaction was due to the fact that fish, in particular, and goats during the Durga festival are mandatory items. Many of them underlined that fish is very crucial to Bengali culture and that the broad umbrella of Hindu religion has many tendencies where non-vegetarian food is part of the ritual. Many, from former Tripura Governor Tathagata Roy to journalists and content creators, people from a diverse section, including those who described themselves as “Bengali Hindu nationalists”, retaliated. “Don’t tell a Bengali how to celebrate Durga Puja,” Kolkata-based content creator Shreyasi Biswas Banerjee wrote on Facebook. In the video attached, Biswas underlined that an “outsider” was prescribing rules for a festival embedded in Bengal’s distinct religious and culinary traditions. Few people attacked the poster of Shastri.

Suvendu Adhikari, who received Shastri with great warmth, attended a ceremony at a Durga temple and consumed the fish Prasad. Many of them stated the core value of fish in Bengali culture. India is a country full of diversities in all matters: food, clothing, language and religion. Hindus also have many sects and diverse food habits. We have Kashmiri Pandits for whom mutton dishes are an inalienable part of their culture. Food habits are decided by multiple factors, geographical location being an important one. In coastal areas, seafood is an important part of their diet.

In the recently held BRICS meeting, only vegetarian food was served at the gala dinner. Interestingly, Xi Jinping skipped this dinner, whatever be his reasons. While keeping only vegetarian food for international guests was criticised by the opposition parties, Kiran Rijiju defended it by saying that the guests appreciated the menu. This also showed the thinking of the government, as if India only has vegetarian cuisine. The UP government CM Yogi Adityanath recently published a map of important food items of all districts of UP. In this, Lucknow’s Tunde Kabab was missing, and only vegetarian items were presented, as if UP consumes only vegetarian food.

In yet another incident, 14 Muslims were put behind bars for having chicken biryani at their Iftar party while having a boat ride on the Ganga River. Interestingly, some Hindus who consumed liquor during their boat ride were not touched at all. So many factors are at play in the policies of the BJP governments.

Despite knowing the fact that nearly 70% of Indians are non-vegetarians, vegetarianism is being promoted by BJP governments, and at some places successfully. In Gujarat, where the BJP has been in power for the last three decades, by and large, non-vegetarian joints have been more or less invisibilised. Many people go to restaurants near the Gujarat border and satisfy their craving for non-vegetarian food.

It is a dilemma for the BJP to keep balancing between Indians’ prevalent food habits and its agenda of imposing vegetarianism. At every possible chance, they and their cohorts try to push forward vegetarianism. Somehow, the BJP associates non-vegetarianism with Muslims in particular, and this bypassing of non-vegetarian food, an essential part of Indian food habits irrespective of the religion of the people, is facing this dilemma. They get away with this aggressive vegetarianism at places like Gujarat, while in WB, they are facing such opposition. Shastri, the likes of whom have mushroomed heavily during the last couple of decades, is a supplement to RSS-BJP politics.

The attempt of Shastri was in this direction, and his effort has been like sowing the seeds of particular food habits. Human society has evolved through various stages, and food habits have been very diverse. The aim of RSS-BJP and their political-cultural supporters remains to glorify vegetarianism purely for ideological reasons. There may be other reasons for promoting veganism or vegetarianism, but respect for people’s food habits is the starting point for a democratic society. So, this Baba is facing flak for advocating a ban on non-vegetarianism. Maybe the BJP may continue in some other ways to persist with their vegetarianism, which supplements their ‘Hate Muslim’ agenda.


The author is a former Professor of Biomedical Engineering at IIT Bombay and writes on  political and social issues. The views expressed are personal.

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